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Mary Had A Little Lamb . . .
by THE LIGONIER CHEF: Scott Sinemus
As seen in The Laurel Mountain Post March, 2006
There are just too many things about springtime to pick a single one to be the best. That being said, I have to put lamb up there in the top 10. It’s a shame more people in the States don’t appreciate lamb. Older folks have a bad connotation with it, as in the not too recent past mutton was frequently passed off to be lamb. Mutton is a fully matured older sheep, which can indeed be too strongly flavored to be enjoyed in any cooking application. The younger set can’t quite get past how cute & fuzzy the sheep are to consider having them for dinner.
When my brother & I were just kids, we raised a sheep my Dad insisted we call “Lamb Chop”, that way we would always be reminded that one day he was destined to be dinner! So, I can truly relate to the cuteness factor; but will mention, no one in the family aside from my Dad could bear to eat Lamb Chops’ Chops… On the other hand I couldn’t wait to see “Jethro” on the table. Now I take the approach: since it’s an animal that virtually every part can be utilized for something, I’m ok with it. Let’s face it, it’s one of the meats that has been celebrated & revered for millennia, by nearly every single culture, and one that often includes the word ‘Spring’ in it’s marketing, “Spring Lamb”, when written on a menu still makes me salivate almost instantly. With the farming & shipping today it’s possible to have affordable, delicious lamb any time of the year. And we always hope Dad wins the bidding on the market lamb at the fair.
We are very fortunate to have some of the worlds best lambs being raised right here in the Laurel Highlands by John & Sukey Jamison. Renowned Chefs across the country clamber to have it on their 5-Star menus. I enjoy it myself; some of the best legs of lamb I’ve ever had, have been Jamison Lamb. Call me what you will though, I still prefer my chops to be the larger but still as tender New Zealand Lamb.
There are a myriad of classic lamb preparations from Roast Leg of Lamb, Lamb Chops, Rack of Lamb, Braised Lamb Shanks, Irish Lamb Stew, Curried Lamb, etc. And for the record: Shepherds Pie is not Shepherds Pie unless it is made with lamb!
I’m not going to give a specific recipe this month; instead rather I’m going to give a couple of “methods” for preparation. Think of them as enhancements to your favorite recipe.
Before I start though, since I’m advocating a roast, please go and get yourself a digital thermometer with a probe! They are wireless now and at around $30, less than the price of one single roast you’ll ruin without one. The reason a probe is essential: there are too many factors that go into making a roast cook according to the time in a recipe, for instance: How cold was it when it went into the oven?
How tough is the connective tissue? Is your oven actually at the temperature you think it is? Are there bones in it? What kind of pan it is in and where is it placed in the oven? Now that you have your probe you may feel the freedom of knowing that your dinner is going to be exactly as you like it every single time! Be certain to always remember; when you remove the roast from the oven; there will be “carry over cooking”, which is always good for raising the temperature at least 5-10 degrees after the meat has been removed from the oven. If you’re not sure what temperature equals what you like on the doneness scale, there is a little chart that comes with your thermometer. And ALWAYS let your roast rest for 15-20 minutes before cutting it (no matter how hungry you are or how good it smells & looks). On that note, do not remove the probe either. Instead take this time to finish making your sauce, heat your vegetables, tend your starch etc. You will be handsomely rewarded for your patience with a juicy succulent roast. Slicing your roasts on the thinner side against the grain of the meat will also help to encourage tenderness and enhance the meat’s flavor.
Using a probe will also afford you the chance to roast your meat by a method instead of the ticking of a clock. Too many times I’ve seen even so-called professionals, repeatedly puncture a roast several times with an instant read thermometer towards the end of cooking trying to find out what doneness it is inside. The amount of juices lost to this method is clearly measurable and completely unacceptable. Even the old ‘shove in & leave in’ thermometer you’ve probably found buried in the back of your mom’s gadget drawer is better than that.
When roasting meat it is essential to remember that the air in the oven when you start your roast has got to be very hot & very dry. I like to start off at 425 f for a smaller roast and go up to 450-475 f for the larger roasts. I leave the meat in for 30 minutes then turn the oven down to 225 f without opening the door! In about an hour open the door, insert your probe into the thickest part of the meat~ but not near a bone, quickly close the door, set your temperature, then decant & try your wine.
When you’re making Roast Leg of Lamb, instead of slicing it all over and shoving garlic into the slits (as most recipes call for you to do) try this instead:
- Remove the roast from the bones, trim out the sinew & extra fat bits, reserve. This isn’t as daunting a procedure as you might think, all you need is patience to follow the sinew thru the tissues and a sharp flexible boning knife.
- Smear chopped garlic, fresh herbs & pepper on the meat. Do not use salt, as it draws moisture out of the meat, which isn’t what you want to do.
- Fold in the pieces, reshape and tie it up with cotton butchers twine. I usually let mine marinate on a wire rack over a sheet pan in the refrigerator, covered only with a linen towel overnight & thru the next day; removing it to the counter one hour before cooking, grinding salt & pepper on the outside before roasting.
- Roast the bones & trimmings in the oven with some Mirepoix (carrots, onions, celery) to create a stock to become a sauce, this should be done on day 1 immediately following butchering, that way if you only have one oven, you’re not compromising the roast to make sauce.
- There aren’t going to be many bones in your lamb leg, if you supplement the same amount of veal knuckles as you have lamb bones, you’ll be able to make more stock. Better still would be, if you have a rapport with your butcher… which I truly suggest starting if you don’t have one already, getting additional lamb bones to make a nice full stockpot won’t ever be a problem.
- When slicing, only slice as much as is needed at the time. The leftovers are much nicer sliced fresh off of a large chilled piece; however, there should always be a few pieces left on the platter when you put it away, making for an easy nibble when you’re staring in the fridge for a quick bite later.
Consider making Rack of Lamb instead of Lamb Chops
- Trim excess fat off the back of the rack, pat dry with paper towel, salt & pepper
- Sear (fat side down first) in a very hot dry cast iron skillet, only until the fat is browned, remembering to touch each end of the loins to the skillet for a moment before removing from the heat and placing on a wire rack, over a sheet pan
- Allow to cool, then smear a healthy layer of Dijon mustard across the fat
- Then dip into a mixture of fresh breadcrumbs & herbs (including Lavender buds, Rosemary, Thyme, Parsley, Chervil, Garlic & whatever you fancy) I use a standard premixed “Herbs de Provence”.
- Then roast in a 425 f oven to your desired doneness, which hopefully is Rare
- Allow racks to rest for 5 minutes if they’re petite, but no longer than 10 even if they’re large
- If you’re serving the petite chops for hors d’ oeuvre, be sure to “French” them. This means scraping the visible bone completely clean of any meat, fat or sinew
- If you’re grilling over an open flame ALWAYS take a second to wrap the bones with foil, particularly if you haven’t Frenched them
The Ligonier Chef’s Spring Picks 2006
Jamison Farm
Latrobe, PA
www.jamisonfarm.com
171 Jamison Lane · Latrobe, PA 15650
Toll Free: 1-800-237-5262
Fax: 1-724-837-2287
Jamison Lamb can be purchased directly from their website. I definitely recommend saving their site to your favorites. It’s updated regularly, and has a myriad of information, including recipes, ordering information, links, etc. Sukey also gives cooking classes in the Wexford kitchen, classes are small 6-8 people and fill up fast; the next one is March 18. John & Sukey are also involved with the Jean–Louis Palladin Foundation, www.jlpfoundation.org that carries on Jean-Louis’ work of mentoring young chefs and meticulously searching for the very best ingredients on the planet. The Jamisons are hosting another intern again this spring. The farm is also Certified Humane for it’s second straight year. www.certifiedhumane.com
Loebel’s
Manhattan, NYC
Lobel’s of New York
1096 Madison Avenue (at 82nd St) New York, NY 10028
1-877-783-4512
Loebel’s is a fantastic meat market in Manhattan; there are many more specialty meat items available besides lamb. Be certain to check out the heirloom beef! All of it now available for online purchase, but it is always nice to stop in if you’re ever in New York. It’s a great atmosphere, not to mention practically an institution in the city.
The Kitchen Collection
Somerset, PA
The Factory Shoppes at Georgian Place
113 Georgian Place Somerset, PA 15501-1600
814-445-3449
Yes, they are still in the Georgian Place! This store is still worth a trip up to Somerset. They’ve got great prices on lots of essentials including almost all of the Kitchen Aid mixer attachments for less money than you’ll spend buying directly from Kitchen Aid. There’s even a wacky “as seen on TV” section of things! This is also the best price I’ve found on the wireless probe thermometer, $39.99, the standard non-wireless are about $10 less. If you have any questions, just ask Erin Baker the manager, she knows almost instantly if they have what you’re looking for and it’s precise location in the store!
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