Isabela adds luxury to dieters' options

By Mackenzie Carpenter, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette
March 18, 2004

Chef Kevin Hunninen isn't flustered by much, but he was definitely taken aback recently when a diner at Isabela on Grandview, the tony Mount Washington restaurant, informed him that she was on the Dean Ornish diet and what could he do about that?

The Ornish diet, by the way, is the super-austere, mostly vegetarian diet so low in fat that it could easily make any chef worth his salt -- and butter and olive oil -- cry, since those ingredients are considered critical to great cuisine. The legendary chef Fernand Point, when asked the secret of his success, answered, "Du beurre, donnez moi du beurre!" ("The butter! Give me the butter!")

But last week, at a cooking class at Isabela for people on the South Beach and Atkins diets, Hunninen was smiling. On these two popular weight loss programs, fat is allowed -- a lot of it on Atkins, less on South Beach.

"You can eat very well on these diets," said Hunninen, who, along with general manager Catherine Olteanu, had carefully studied both programs to come up with dishes that would inspire home cooks to move beyond the turkey roll-ups and egg-spinach cups "to go" of South Beach or the juicy steaks and bunless cheeseburgers of Atkins.

For those not familiar with these diets, both call for eliminating most carbohydrates during the first two weeks, which limits cravings and leads to rapid weight loss. (Atkins also argues that when carbs are limited, the body goes into a condition known as "ketosis" and burns fat first, a claim not made by South Beach.)

The two diets are very different. South Beach does not allow much saturated fat and requires dieters to eat a mix of lean proteins, "good carbs," such as green, leafy vegetables, and "good fats," such as olive oil. It allows beans, lentils, whole-wheat bread and other "low glycemic" foods that are broken down slowly by the body, leading to fewer hunger pangs.

Atkins is more liberal with butter, cream, bacon and other saturated fats, both during the first phase and throughout, but also allows the slow reintroduction of high-fiber, "nutrient-dense" carbs later on.

Both prominently feature recipes in their books and on their Web sites -- and they're good. But is it possible to cook dishes that reach the level of cuisine regularly offered by "destination" restaurants, such as Isabela, which offers a $60 prix-fixe menu of seven courses?

The answer, after we five students studied, analyzed and consumed Hunninen's delicious offerings -- modified from the regular menu -- was a qualified yes.

To be sure, the crab and Maytag blue cheese-stuffed mushroom appetizer with bell pepper pesto was not as sinfully rich as the restaurant's non-diet version, which stuffs the crab and blue cheese into delicate, papery crepes instead of mushrooms and adds a luscious cream sauce.

The second appetizer, a spicy Jamison Lamb farm Merguez sausage -- it's relatively low in fat -- didn't come encased in a buttery rich puff pastry, as it usually does on Isabela's menu. And the herb-crusted grouper in parchment didn't come with its usual partner, a satiny buerre blanc ( under Atkins, arguably, it could have been allowed).

It was almost easy to forget that this was diet food with a little more fat -- mostly olive oil -- than is called for in what we traditionally think of when we deprive ourselves. Call it "spa" food, with an emphasis on color and texture: Crusty grilled pork tenderloin with julienned vegetables in a white wine tarragon sauce was savory and satisfying, and the chermoula-seasoned grouper in parchment with red lentils was phenomenal.

A salad with field greens was vividly flavored with a garlicky, low-fat Balsamic vinaigrette thickened with cornstarch, which coats the leaves more efficiently, encouraging diners to use less.

The biggest lesson learned? That Chermoula, a rough paste of herbs and chilis that is a staple of North African cuisine, should also be a staple in every Pittsburgh dieter's kitchen. In fact, Hunninen recommends the use of finely chopped vegetables and herbs to kick up the flavor of most of Atkins' and South Beach's dishes. It's labor-intensive, to be sure, but this is high-end cooking, with an emphasis on more complex taste and presentation.

"That seems to be the key," he said. "Herbs really do make a difference."

It's important, too, to use good olive oil, preferably in a "mister" (pump sprayers made by Misto, Pampered Chef or Oggi, among others) that makes a little oil go a long way. Hunninen likes the "Academia" Terra di Bari brand of olive oil made by Barilla, which he buys at Heineman's in the Strip.

"It has a grassy, earthy character, and at $10 a bottle, it has far more flavor than other more expensive brands," he said.

Hunninen says his recipes can be duplicated at home, as long as the best ingredients are used (the low-fat Jamison sausage, for example, can be ordered from the Latrobe farm on its Web site at www.jamisonfarm.com or by calling 1-800-237-5262).

Dessert was a mock "Tiramisu" of ricotta flavored with Splenda and sprinkled with grated chocolate. Hunninen recommends letting the ricotta, which is full of moisture, drain over cheesecloth for an hour before using it, and folding in beaten egg whites, which lighten the texture.

OK, so it's not the sinfully rich "Cheesecake as It Should Be" dessert served at Isabela -- or Junior's, for that matter, but desserts like these make the dieter's meal much more palatable.

"Food is important to the quality of life; it's not punishment," says Olteanu.

Will these dishes show up on Isabela's menu any time soon? Don't count on it. This restaurant is for people who want to spend a special evening out, and if that means splurging on cream, truffles or puff pastry, so be it.

"We believe that people should enjoy their food each and every day," says Olteanu. "There's nothing more personal than what you put in your body. It's important, even when you're dieting, to take the time to nurture yourself."

Recipes
These recipes were tasted but not kitchen-tested by the Post-Gazette.

GROUPER BAKED IN PARCHMENT PAPER WITH RED LENTILS AND CHARMOULA

Chermoula:

• 1/2 cup tightly packed cilantro leaves 1/2 cup tightly packed Italian parsley leaves 4 garlic cloves 1/2-inch slice fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced 1 to 3 jalapeno peppers, seeds and ribs removed, chopped 1 teaspoon ground cumin Juice of 1 lemon 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 pounds grouper or other firm-fleshed white fish, trimmed into 4 portions 2 cups thinly sliced vegetables such as fennel bulbs, celery, bell peppers, onions, carrots 1/2 cup red lentils (also called salmon, crimson or pink lentils and sold in Indian markets as masoor dal) 2 lemons, sliced thin (12 slices) 4 tablespoons white wine 4 teaspoons butter or extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 sheets parchment paper (sold with baking goods or at specialty kitchen stores)

In a small sauce pot , boil 3 cups of water, season as you would for cooking pasta with salt and gently simmer the lentils until cooked yet firm to the bite, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain and run under cold water briefly to prevent further cooking.

To assemble the dish , lay out the parchment on the work surface and lightly coat it with oil. Keeping in mind that the paper will be folded in half and rolled/creased shut, divide the lentils among the 4 papers, making little piles just off center. Lay the vegetables on top of the lentils and season with salt and pepper, if desired. Lightly season the fish with salt and pepper and coat each piece with chermoula; then place the fish on top of the vegetables. Cover each fish with 3 lemon slices, 1 tablespoon wine and 1 teaspoon butter or oil. Fold the parchments in half and, beginning at one side and continuing until there is a tight seal, roll and crease the paper to make a small package.

Transfer the parchments to a baking sheet and bake at 425 degrees until the liquid inside is boiling, the paper has browned and the packages have inflated from the steam. This usually takes 15 to 20 minutes. To serve, transfer onto individual plates and let each guest open their own and eat it right out of the parchment (don't eat the paper, though).

Serves 4 as an entree.

-- Isabela chef Kevin Hunninen

JAMISON FARM MERGUEZ SAUSAGE WITH TOMATO-HERB SAUCE AND WILTED SPINACH

• 1 pound Jamison Farm Merguez Sausage (a low- fat, flavorful sausage) 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/4 cup white wine 1 cup chopped fresh tomatoes 3/4 cup plain tomato sauce 11/2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme 2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley 1 teaspoon minced basil Pinch pepper flakes (optional) Salt and black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon softened butter or extra virgin olive oil
• 10 ounces trimmed washed spinach

Meanwhile, lightly brown the garlic in the saucepan and deglaze with the white wine. Over high heat, reduce the wine by half and add the next 6 ingredients; cook over moderate heat until the sauce has thickened. Season to taste and finish sauce by whisking in butter (if you're on Atkins) or a little extra-virgin olive oil (if you're on South Beach). This is optional, but it gives a richer flavor.

Important: Do not vigorously boil sauce after the addition of the butter/oil.

Just before serving , heat a large saute pan with about 1 tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil and add the spinach. Cook, tossing constantly, 1 to 2 minutes or until the spinach is cooked but still has some bite (it's not completely slimy), season lightly with salt and pepper, and serve immediately with slices of sausage and sauce.

Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer.

-- Isabela chef Kevin Hunninen

LOW FAT LOW CALORIE TIRAMISU MOUSSE

• 16 ounces low-fat ricotta cheese 11/2 cups granular sugar substitute (Hunninen used Splenda) 2 ounces rum, alcohol burned off 2 tablespoons instant espresso powder 2 teaspoons cornstarch or arrowroot
• 12 egg whites

-- Isabela chef Kevin Hunninen

5-MINUTE LOW-FAT BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE

• 2 cloves garlic, minced 3/4 cup water 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, minced (optional/recommended) 1 1/2 teaspoons parsley, minced (optional/recommended) Salt, to taste (1 teaspoon recommended) Black pepper, to taste 1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in 2 tablespoons water ("slurry")
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

In a small saucepot , lightly brown the garlic over medium heat and add the water, vinegar, herbs and some salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and gradually add the cornstarch slurry (you may not need all of it), whisking constantly to avoid clumping, until the boiling dressing has the consistency that will coat a spoon (think of heavy cream, or commercial salad dressing). Remove from heat, and check the consistency again; if the dressing is too thick, add more water; if too thin, bring back to a boil and add more slurry.

Finish by whisking in olive oil and adding more salt, if necessary. Chill and enjoy; the dressing will be slightly thicker when it has been chilled.

Some helpful hints: Use some lettuce when tasting if your dressing is seasoned correctly -- it's hard to tell by tasting the dressing on its own. Use this method as a guideline to create your own low-fat dressings; use more or less vinegar if you prefer, cut out all the fat by using water, use Dijon mustard or different herbs, and try different vinegars such as sherry or red wine. Just remember that some vinegars may require more water or a little honey/sugar/Splenda because they are very acidic (sherry, for example) and therefore may require a little more slurry to thicken the liquid.

Makes 1-1/2 cups.

-- Isabela chef Kevin Hunninen